Formula Cura4 2pc Lever Upgrade NSMB Andrew Major
REVIEW

Formula Cura Brakes | Two-Piece Lever Blade Upgrade

Photos Andrew Major (Unless Noted)
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The Year Was 2019

I've lost track of how many bikes these Cura 4 brakes have been on. Or how many sets of pads I've worn out. Or how many times I've pushed fluid through them. I've had the pistons out of the calipers for a full rebuild once. For shits & giggles, I later split the calipers fifty-fifty with a pair of black ones I'd bought years back to upgrade a pair of Cura 2 brakes.

Since 2019, the only issues I've had were a fluke split in a rear brake line from a crash, and the eventual development of an unrideable amount of slop in the brake levers that's brought me here today. I've installed enough brand-new Cura brakes in the last couple of years to say with authority that as worn-in as these might be, lever blade slop aside, they function perfectly.

These new CNC machined 2-piece lever blades promise increased stiffness, increased leverage, increased tunability, and, for those who care, actual tool-free lever-reach adjustment. They're not inexpensive at 200 CAD a pair aftermarket or 120 when purchased with a new brake set.

Formula Cura4 2pc Lever Upgrade NSMB Andrew Major (3)

Up close there are plenty of signs of wear on the gold anodizing.

Formula Cura4 2pc Lever Upgrade NSMB Andrew Major (5)

The new 2pc levers have stiffer CNC'd blades and adjustable leverage.

Formula Cura4 2pc Lever Upgrade NSMB Andrew Major (4)

Looking fresh and most importantly, tight. No more lever blade slop.


FCS adjusts the distance between the lever and pushrod pivot, varying the amount of leverage that the brake lever exerts on the lever piston." - Formula Italy

The Install Process

Circlip pliers are recommended for installation but some folks press headsets into multi-thousand dollar frames with a hammer and a block of wood, so don't let me tell you what to do. I used a pick to remove the circlip, as with some SRAM brakes. Then for the installation I used circlip pliers, but I've done the same job using a pick in both directions. If in doubt, and you're purchasing these blades from a shop, I imagine they'd happily install them for a minimal fee, especially if you're due for a brake bleed at the same time. It's a very quick job. Formula has put together a video on the process for those thinking of tackling it themselves.

Formula Cura4 2pc Lever Upgrade NSMB Andrew Major (9)

Circlip pliers are not necessary for removal. Just use a pick.

Formula Cura4 2pc Lever Upgrade NSMB Andrew Major (8)

Circlip pliers are recommended for installation, but it's also possible with a pick.

Formula Cura4 2pc Lever Upgrade NSMB Andrew Major (7)

The magnets that drop into the reach adjust barrel nut are a neat trick.

A brake bleed is not mandatory as part of this process but most riders are overdue for a full flush anyway. Chances are it's not a bad idea. I was also installing a new rear brake line to replace the damaged one so I did bleed the rear brake, but my front was done only a few rides ago so I left it.

Once installed, it's now truly a tool-free process to set the lever blade reach, so that's quick and easy. I run my Formula brake levers almost as close to the bars* as they go so I dialed them in and then it's a matter of setting the Feel Control System (FCS) dial at the front. More on that below.

*I love the Cura 4, but for folks with truly small hands, I generally recommend other systems like Magura MT5/Trail brakes with their HC lever or Hayes Dominions with their SRL (Short Reach Lever).

Formula Cura4 2pc Lever Upgrade NSMB Andrew Major (6)

The new 2pc lever blade is significantly more robust than the previous generation.

Formula Cura4 2pc Lever Upgrade NSMB Andrew Major (10)

I swapped in a new rear line at the same time, but bleeding is not normally required to swap lever blades.

Formula Cura4 2pc Lever Upgrade NSMB Andrew Major

In addition to the FCS (Feeling Control System) at the front of the lever blade, the reach-adjust feature is now legitimately tool-free.

The Braking Difference

Other than the slop that's developed through years of use, I had no complaints with the stock setup on the Formula Cura 4. It's a fantastic braking system. I would have been quite happy to replace the lever blades with the stock units, I just wanted everything to feel fresh-from-the-box tight.

I know folks who lamented that the Cura 4 brakes did not feel as initially crisp as the Cura 2 system, which runs a two-piston caliper with the same master cylinder assembly. This new lever blade resolves that issue. I know others who felt the depth of power and lever action that the Formulas delivered didn't match the best brakes from Hope, Magura, and Hayes. This new lever blade resolves that issue.

The brakes feel more powerful through the full FCS setting range and the action feels lighter. These lever blades are a serious performance upgrade.

Marinster Truck El Roy Marin NSMB Andrew Major (1)

Feathering fresh (feeling) Cura 4 brakes with the semi-slick Schwalbe Rock Razor 27x2.6" rear tire.

Formula Cura4 Marin El Roy Marinster Truck Andrew Major by Steve

Wow was the North Shore amazing for most of November. Often the best time to visit! Photo - Steve & Meg

I have not had the opportunity to test these lever blades with a set of two-piston Cura 2 calipers. I still have a pair of Cura 2 brakes that live on my gravel-commuter and I'd like swap lever blades in the future.

It would be interesting to compare the Cura 2 brakes with the new 2 pc levers against the Dominion T2 brakes I reviewed recently. This could be a project for my Waltworks V2 when it comes back from repair.

Formula Cura4 2pc Lever Upgrade NSMB Andrew Major (12)

I'm still playing with the FCS tuning but so far I prefer the front brake lever-feel adjusted fully towards the softer and more powerful setting.

Formula Cura4 2pc Lever Upgrade NSMB Andrew Major (14)

I've heard multiple riders describe the ride difference as "night and day" favouring the new 2pc blades. It's certainly an improvement.

Formula Cura4 2pc Lever Upgrade NSMB Andrew Major (13)

For the rear brake, I'm running the FCS around the middle setting for a balance of firm initialization and power.

Cura 4 Conclusions

Are the new two-piece levers worth 200 CAD for a pair? That's going to depend entirely on perspective. For someone with a current set of Cura 4 brakes in good condition, seeking more power or a lighter action, I'd make the min-max argument for buying the brakes you already own. The tunable FCS system and real tool-free reach adjust are nice too. It's a bonus that the fresh levers made my heavily used set feel like new and also boosted brake performance into the realm of the best brakes I've ridden.

For someone buying fresh brakes, the new lever blades take the Cura 4 brakes from 250 CAD per end to 310. Comparing SRP, that price is still right in line with the Hayes Dominion A4, and it's fewer Canuck bucks than comparable high-end systems from Hope and Magura. That's for a fully serviceable brake system that's made in Italy.

Value is always a personal decision, but if I was buying a fresh set of Cura brakes I'd certainly spring for the difference to get the 2pc levers, and if I was pining for more power and lighter action, the value of just upgrading the lever blades would capture my dollars as well. If I had a current set of Cura 4 brakes and I was stoked on them as is, that's 200 CAD I could spend on something else.

For more information check out Formula Italy. Here in Canada, brakes and levers are available through Alba Distribution or any local bike shop that works with them.

AndrewMajor
Andrew Major

Height - Steve Buscemi-ish

Wait - Patiently

Ape Index - T-Rex

Age - The same as DOS

Favourite Trail(s) every week - Pipeline (thank you Ken!) to Lower Crippler (thank you Andy!)

Favourite Song(s) this week - I'm Your Man. Nick Cave (covering Leonard Cohen)

Favourite Colour - Cosmic Lilac

Bar Width - It depends

Reach & Stack & ETT - It depends

Crank Length - 175mm except when it's 170mm

Wheel Size - Hot For Mullets

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Comments

danithemechanic
+5 bushtrucker RG Vik Banerjee Fat_Tony_NJ gubbinalia

Hold on a second, did you just mixed two caliper halves of different colors!?

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AndrewMajor
+3 Vik Banerjee danithemechanic Hardlylikely

Yes, I had both having previously bought 4-piston calipers to pair with the master cylinders from the Cura 2 brakes I reviewed. Quick job and figured why not?

They’ve actually been that way a while and at least one reader picked it up in a different piece. I think it looks sweet.

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gubbinalia
+5 Timer Andrew Major Vik Banerjee Dogl0rd Luix

Andrew, I have to applaud your ongoing focus on the longevity / long-term useability of these high-end, more-boutique brake systems (Hayes, Formula, Magura, et al.) – your articles go a long way to prove out the year-over-year value of these less-commonly-chosen products. In my case, I stuck with Shimano for so long because I thought that the smaller brake-makers didn't have good long-term support behind them. Wish I had jumped ship to my current Dominions earlier!

When Hayes wasn't producing the T2 system for a while there, I considered going to the Cura X system since they offer carbon levers and a pretty Shimano-esque lever shape. I wonder if the new 2-piece FCS lever option will eventually come in carbon? I know several on this site, Andrew included, are on the "carbon for warmth, not for weight" train.

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AndrewMajor
+5 Vik Banerjee Dogl0rd Luix gubbinalia BarryW

Thank you. I really believe in the idea of amortizing my life and I appreciate that NSMB (the owners & the readers) are keen on these multi-year features. 

I doubt we’ll see a carbon 2pc lever because the 1pc blade works perfectly with the 2-piston calipers and, as you allude to, the majority of folks buying carbon are focused on weight savings.

I’d love if they did though, carbon blades make such a difference especially when it’s wet + cold.

I’m actually writing an update on a piece I did years ago on the subject - better living through carbon fibre - as I’ve recently revised the experience through my grom. Our friend Penny gave us some old Guide Ultimate brakes (thank you Penny!) to fix up and, after a full master cylinder rebuild, they function identically to my daughter’s last set of Guide brakes but for the fantastic-plastic levers. It has made a real difference! 

I some many folks (including myself) who turn their noses up at Guide/G2 brakes for local steep & janky trails but they work awesome for kids.

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gubbinalia
+2 Andrew Major AndrewR

Thanks for the thoughtful reply, Andrew – would love to see a follow-up to the "Better Living" post. I reaaaallllly notice the carbon lever blades for pretty much any ride below 50F. Used to be a luxury, now a necessity!

Not a carbon product, but speaking of cold-weather tips, your wool-insoles advocacy has helped keep my feet warm with a combo of SuperFeet wool insoles (still need to try the Esker Approach!) and glued-on foil in my fatbike / winter riding shoes.

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AndrewMajor
+1 arno

Cheers!

I’m curious about the foil?! Under the insole? I’ve heard of folks doing plastic wrap under the insole but never foil. 

For a while I knew a guy who rode in Subway bags (because John Stamstad rode in Subway bags). Certainly always interested in how folks are innovating comfort, especially on the cheap.

I haven’t tried SuperFeet wool. Glad they work for you!

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andrewbikeguide
0

You won't be disappointed with the Esker insoles (I have them in every shoe that I can fit them in) and the gluing foil to the bottom of the insole is a great old trick for improving heat retention.

I am about to add a Vapour barrier sock to my winter fat biking arsenal as I think it is moisture (sweat) cooling that makes my feet go cold after two hours riding in the minus 10-20ºC range.

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ackshunW
+2 Justin White Andrew Major

Great write up and good detail pics, but I need more - - - can you explain in words or pics how the FCS system works? 

Sounds like it is basically doing the same thing as the old Avid speed dial. (Which was sooooo key in setting brake feel back in the day, and responsible for galvanizing my brake-nerdery). But I don’t see where the movement occurs, I feel like I’m looking at two fixed pivot points on the lever.

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AndrewMajor
+2 Justin White ackshunW

I had some photos not turn out usable - the nature of taking pictures in a work shop - but I’ll partially disassemble tonight and update here with some pictures

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AndrewMajor
+1 Justin White

@ackshunW & @Justin

Pardon the garden hose. I snapped a few photos here to show how the FCS adjuster cams the lever main-pivot position. It's optically subtle but I think you can see the difference. I'll actually have my hands on another set of lever-blade-only 2pc levers this week so when those come in I'll get some better photos of the cam system not installed, hopefully. It's a bit tricky to show. 

Note that in these photos I have not moved the reach adjuster, but the slight difference in lever reach is caused by the movement of the cam. 

FCS Neutral (where I'm running my rear brake currently):

FCS Full Positive:

FCS Full Negative:

Particularly if you look at full positive vs. full negative notice how much of the lever is visible just above the pivot point.

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just6979
0

Wow, so it is basically the old Avid Ultimate leverage adjust from the other side. The pivot bolt must be smaller than the pivot hole in the body of the lever, and the adjustment moves a cam inside the lever? From the other pics (and Formula's pics), the hole seemed to be the same size as both the old lever and the bolt, and that made visualizing the adjustment difficult.

Is "FCS Neutral" their words or yours? Looks exactly the same as Full Negative. Does the adjuster have only 3 positions? Or clicks at all?

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AndrewMajor
0

It’s infinitely adjustable through the range. No, ‘neutral’ is my term just trying to describe the setting I’m using which is about midway between the range.

.

Yes, the adjuster has wonderfully positive detents. I didn’t think to count the clicks but I can if you’d like to know how many.

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AndrewMajor
+1 AndrewR

I figured I’d count them anyway. 

RH lever I count a total range of 40 detents and I’m running 22-out from full positive.

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AndrewMajor
0

So it is basically the old Avid Ultimate leverage adjust from the other side.

*Edit: now I see what you’re saying. Just like M952/Avid Ultimate just pushing a hydraulic piston instead of pulling a cable.

Interesting way of visualizing it.

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just6979
+2 Andy Eunson Andrew Major

Yes, that's how it worked for the Avid Speed Dial (that's their little branding, it actually came on non-Ultimates, too) feature: moved the cable anchor.

Didn't realize Shimano did the same adjustable thing. I only knew about the O.G. ServoWave levers (BL-M600?) that let the cable anchor slide closer to the pivot as you pulled the lever, giving more cable pull initially and increasing leverage as the cable tension increased.

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AndrewMajor
+1 bighonzo

The change in ratio with the M952 is big enough to acceptably use the levers with canti-brakes. It’s pretty neat. I assume that was by design as they were Shimano’s first v-brake lever.

In addition to v-brakes I used mine with canti-brakes and also Paul Racer brakes. 

Loved this bike, but pulling a Chariot trailer around North Van required wider contact patch and disc brakes. 

bighonzo
0

This comment has been removed.

jt
+1 Justin White

More a copy of what Hayes had going on with the El Camino. Changes the fulcrum location. I will trust these hold up WAYYYYY better than the ECs tho! :D

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Kapolczer
+1 Andrew Major

Fantastic write-up as always Andrew. When these came out, I had high hopes for them, they seemed like they were just going to give that extra edge in a few areas over the stock levers. After 3 seasons on a pair Cura 4’s, I found myself curious about the other options on the market and ended up on some Hope tech 4 v4’s and Hayes Dominion A4’s this season. Both have been fantastic, I honestly have no complaints. But there’s something about the cura’s that I loved when I owned them, the lever feel is fantastic, and they are so consistent in their performance. They were the first brake that felt like it did everything I wanted, and nothing I didn’t. I might have to find a reason to get try a pair with these FCS levers in the future.

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AndrewMajor
+1 Kapolczer

All the best options on hand!

Thank you for the props. 

I love long term testing products and seeing companies continue to upgrade and support existing stuff, but I imagine most of these lever blades will go out the door on fresh brakes.

Follow up if/when you try a set. I’m always hungry for feedback.

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hongeorge
0

Given the pricing, I suspect you're right - 87 Euoi here for 1 blade. can get a  full Cura two-pot brake for 93

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AndrewMajor
0

Cura 2 is a different brake. I suspect it wouldn’t benefit as much (and maybe at all) from the 2pc lever as the initialization is much firmer than the original Cura 4. 

I’d love to try the 2pc blades with my Cura 2 brakes just out of interest, but I’ll note Formula is recommending them as an upgrade for Cura 4.

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hongeorge
0

Yeah - just using the Cura to make the point, one lever blade with an extra twiddly bit is priced near the same as a full lever & caliper

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AndrewMajor
0

It’s significantly more involved manufacturing wise than the original lever blade, but certainly not in-expensive as an upgrade.

Value, it depends on what a rider is seeking. Cura 2 is a good system and a great value. Last 2-piston brake to win a DH WC. 

But the Cura 4 with the extra power delivered by the 2pc lever setup is a massively more aggressive brake. I wouldn’t say they’re comparable systems just as I wouldn’t compare the Cura 2 against a Hayes Dominion 4-piston brake or Magura MT7.

I still regularly ride Cura 2 brakes, but compared to these other systems they’ve found a second life on my commuter bike.

bighonzo
+1 Andrew Major

That bike's crying out for reverse arch routing.

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AndrewMajor
+1 bighonzo

100% and I would always reverse-arch-route brakes on Manitou forks given the choice. These brake lines were trimmed for my truculent Waltworks V2 but if they were fresh from the box, or the line was longer then we’d both be happier with the aesthetic.

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MTB_THETOWN
+1 Andrew Major

I love the feel of my cura 4s in terms of power delivery. I also have some DHR evos, and the only thing I prefer on those is the lever shape (easier adjustment is nice, but it's also something that only has to be done once). 

These look tempting, but are pretty low on the priority list for now. But good to know that the levers can develop some slop over time and then these will fix it along with what sounds like some other improvements.

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AndrewMajor
+1 MTB_THETOWN

"pretty low on the priority list for now"

I'm a fan of the Cura 4 sans upgrade and I hope I was clear enough that this is both an obvious upgrade but also not a necessary upgrade. If I was buying new Cura 4 brakes I'd absolutely spring for the 2pc levers, but already owning a pair I'd have to be either seeking for power (i.e. thinking of investing in new brakes) or craving an upgrade in general and not have something higher on the priority list.

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MTB_THETOWN
0

That came through perfectly! I'm sure I'll get them eventually, but I really like them already so fortunately it's not urgent

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hongeorge
0

I love my Curas, but I've had two incidents with leaking hoses, I think their hoses (which have a nice, soft feel to the outer) might  be a touch more prone to this than other brakes. Never had the same with other brands.

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AndrewMajor
0

Maybe? Maybe not?

I’ve installed a few sets of Cura 4 brakes for riders who go hard and mines the only line I’ve replaced. I’ve replaced plenty of other leaking lines but generally on brakes with more OE penetration so not really comparable. I wanted to note it happened - full disclosure - but I certainly wrote it off to that’s mountain biking.

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NotEndurbro
0

Andrew or anyone else, have you had or resolved any issues with the Cura 2's having very minimal pad rollback? I've got a set that always wants to rub. I've been thinking about rebuilding the calipers with new seals because I heard that they may have been changed slightly since I got this set.

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AndrewMajor
+1 Dustin Meyer

Yes. I’ve experienced it with Magura as well, pistons not disengaging is much more obvious on systems where the pads sit very close to the rotor. 

Usually I can resolve it with just cleaning and resetting the pistons. On the Cura 2 brakes on my commuter I ended up lubricating the caliper pistons with mineral oil and that was the fix, though if it happens again it’ll be rebuild time. That’s the beauty of a fully serviceable brake.

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NotEndurbro
+1 Andrew Major

Thanks for the feedback!

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just6979
0

Got any pics with the FCS adjusted to both ends? Not really seeing how the adjustment works, from the pics it looks like the lever pivot and the pushrod pivot positions are fixed, though the new one looks like they are farther apart for more piston movement with less lever throw. Do you know how either end of the adjustment is supposed to compare to the one-piece levers?

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AndrewMajor
+1 Justin White

Please see my reply to @ackshunW. I’ll add some photos under their post tonight.

.

Neither end of the adjustment feels like the one piece lever. I’d say there’s more piston movement with less lever throw through the FCS range though it is a clear difference in feel at both ends of the adjustment.

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